A NEW LIFE IN ITALY

As told in letters to my 92 year old grandmother…

#33: The Italian Furbo
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#33: The Italian Furbo

Well, we've done it. We've officially (finally) moved to our new apartment. Between the dreaded ZTL, rain, and sickness I would be lying if I said it was anything other than a very unenjoyable experience. The outcome, however, is fantastic.

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#32: Moving House and Outrageous Italian Headlines
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#32: Moving House and Outrageous Italian Headlines

I have heard from many people that Italians take everything - including the kitchen sink - with them when they move. But we were quite surprised when we realised that the previous tenants even took the light globes and shower curtain railing with them when they vacated the apartment!

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#31: ID Cards and Espresso in Glass
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#31: ID Cards and Espresso in Glass

While I am still very easily rendered mute in the face of an Italian inquisition, I am at least now able to comprehend a little more of what is being said to me. And by quashing my instinct to panic, I can form monosyllabic responses to most basic questions. 

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#30: Lower Your Voices!
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#30: Lower Your Voices!

The spa consisted mostly of indoor and outdoor pools, all heated to a delightful temperature. The main outdoor pool had a swim-up bar, which was packed from the moment the place opened at 10am!

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#29: The Tourist Treatment
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#29: The Tourist Treatment

When we first arrived in summer, we were very much lumped in with the hordes of sunburnt and obnoxious tourists. And fair enough too. We didn't know where we were going, we continually walked on the wrong side of people out of habit, and we failed time and time to order and pay correctly in busy bars and gelaterias. In short, we just generally got in the way. 

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#28: The Phantom Trenino and the Crazy Australiani
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#28: The Phantom Trenino and the Crazy Australiani

Last weekend I decided that we needed to go for an adventure. Something to get us out of town and burn some of the kids' endless energy. I researched online and found a gorgeously run-down but still very fun-looking little train in Viareggio. Un trenino.

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#27: Real Estate Agents and the Questura
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#27: Real Estate Agents and the Questura

We've had all sorts of fun experiences this week, including some truly Mambo Italiano moments. We've finally had to run the gauntlet of the local questura (immigration office), we've been negotiating a new rental lease, and we've spent a weekend with friends in Florence.

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#26: Manual Driving Lessons
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#26: Manual Driving Lessons

One of the major points to note about rental cars (and cars in general in Italy) is that this is still a market in which manual transmissions are the standard. Renting or purchasing an automatic is significantly more expensive.

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#25: La Befana and Livorno Adventures
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#25: La Befana and Livorno Adventures

The tale goes that La Befana was approached by the three wise men while they were on their way to greet the baby Jesus. They asked her to show them the way, but she turned them down because she was too busy with her sweeping.

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#23: Buon Natale from Italy
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#23: Buon Natale from Italy

The bambini had fun absolutely shredding the wrapping paper off their presents from Babbo Natale - literally Christmas Dad. Or the much more saucy slash creepy translation of Christmas Daddy.

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#22: Figurati!
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#22: Figurati!

Every time we welcome a new family member or friend, it opens my eyes once again to how lucky we are to be here and how perfect this town is for us. Not everything is easy, but it is beautiful - and if that doesn't just sum up the Italian experience, then I don't know what does!

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#20: Zona Traffico Limitato
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#20: Zona Traffico Limitato

The Italian customs experience is either non-existent, or the most time consuming and hideously inefficient process possible. In this case it was the former. From tarmac to pick up was about 10 minutes. It caught me quite off guard, as I'd planned to spend the wait time doing some research on the city's driving restrictions and parking options.

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#18: My Italian Speech Impediment
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#18: My Italian Speech Impediment

I have a confession to make. I'm a little bit ashamed, but the reality is undeniable. The longer I spend here, and the more language I learn, the clearer it becomes. I have an Italian speech impediment. 

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#17: Riscaldamento and Panettone (aka Heaven)
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#17: Riscaldamento and Panettone (aka Heaven)

Christmas preparations have well and truly begun here in Lucca. The city has been strewn with fairy lights on all the main pedestrian streets in the centre, and many of the shops have begun to dress their windows with festive decorations. Most excitingly for me - panettone is everywhere!

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#16: How to Learn Italian For Free
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#16: How to Learn Italian For Free

So arduous (i.e. Italian) was the enrolment process, that I still didn't even know the night before the term was supposed to start if I had a place, or what time the lessons started. At home I would have given up weeks earlier, but it has been yet another lesson that in Italy, shameless persistence is the only way.

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#15: Everything is Wet and it Serves Me Right
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#15: Everything is Wet and it Serves Me Right

The rain has continued with gusto this week - and although we've been caught out and soaked a couple of times, we have yet to succumb to any major illness. Phew! I have to say though, the obsession with avoiding sickness as a result of being cold is already starting to rub off on us.

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#14: Rainphobia and Triumph at the Cafe
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#14: Rainphobia and Triumph at the Cafe

The change in season has surfaced another fascinating Italianism, which is a very real and intense fear of precipitation. Italians are petrified of getting wet in the rain. For weeks now, the must have accessory around town has been a large umbrella and water resistant shoes.

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